How to be an untourist

Arriving in Lisbon (Lisboa) I hadn't researched a thing about the place. Call it laziness, as I'm increasingly neglectful of looking up the places I'm travelling to. I'll deal with it when I get there, I suppose. The arrival in from the airport (named Humberto Delgado, a national hero and early admirer of Hitler who started TAP Portugal's national airline, though he seemed to become more a democrat later, and was assassinated). All you need is a credit/debit card for the metro, and it was an easy two line transfer to the station closest to my hotel. The next morning I set out down my street, a main one called Ave Almirante Reis, heading, I thought, in the direction of the port. I hadn't looked up any historic sites or museums. I simply headed off. And lo and behold, after a half hour, I was in the city's historic centre, jam packed with colonnaded arcades, monuments and restaurants  (I thought the Greeks are big on food, the Portuguese could give them a run.) Ah, here is the tourist mecca! I kept walking to the waterfront and wandered through the vast and stunning Praça do Comércio. Then along the waterfront where three massive cruise ships, which had disgorged their passengers, were tied up. I kept walking not at all knowing where I was going. When the port road went no further I started walking inland and up the hills with their narrow ever-so-cobblestoned streets (and sidewalks made out of the smallest stones, some with inlaid crest-like designs called Calçada Portuguesa ). And all of sudden I was again in "tourist central" near the famed St. Mary cathedral. Wow, the tourists were in droves! Conga lines up and down each side of the street. Obviously they were seeing "the sights" with pre-planned guidebooks and maps. I just happened upon it. In fact, in all my travels in Europe, I have seldom seen so much tourism except, say in London or Prague. So is this "over tourism?" The Portuguese seem to like it since there are myriad restaurants catering to the crowds. Fine, but being an "untourist" means no "preset" discovery, not fallowing the crowd, and discovering for yourself, where even the obscure nooks and crannies can reveal riches.  

Which brings me to the subject of photos. I, like everyone else, has long desired to take the "just the right" pic of a cityscape or historic site. But this trip I've changed. Sure, I might take a pic of that historic church or castle (no monuments please). But I will often take it in its present day reality. If that means there's a construction crane to the side, or traffic in front, so be it. It gives a sense of what the city is really like. 

Airline online check-ins can be problematic. Flying from Malaga to Majorca on Spain's discount airline, Vueling, online check-in was only in Spanish. I used a translator but still messed up. I thought I'd selected an option which allowed a carry-on in addition to an "under the seat" bag. Nope. Despite paying $66.80 CAD for just the under-the seat (with seat selection!) I got to the boarding gate and was dinged another $95.71 to bring the overhead on board. And today, checking-in on TAP for my next flight to The Azores, the same problem. My Booking.com receipt allowed one overhead in addition to the under-the-seat. Yet the TAP website asks if I want to put a bag in "hold" for an additional price. Screw that. I'll check in, in person, at the airport (no charge) like I did my last flight to Lisbon and pay only one fee, and hopefully not that. 

- Ron Stang, a frequent traveller, Windsor Ontario Canada

Getting out of a local travel rut, and flying multi-city for the price of one way

It's amazing how getting out of a travel rut opens a whole new experience. Ergo, right? I'm speaking specifically about the Costa del Sol in southern Andalusia, Spain, where I've been visiting the last several years. For years, I've relegated myself to the cities of Marbella and Malaga, all within a short bus-train or car ride away. Sure, I've taken day trips to Ronda, Seville, Cordoba, Grenada, Cadiz or Gibraltar. But locally only Marbella and Malaga. Marbella is the smaller with its exquisite old town, Salvador Dali sculpture garden and beachside promenade. Malaga, the birthplace of Picasso, has a startlingly beautiful and immense cruise ship waterfront lined with bars, cafes and boutiques, a magnificent old town, Roman amphitheatre and Moorish fortress, which one can climb up to for a stunning view of the harbour, city and mountainous backdrop. But on my current trip I decided to break out of the mold and explore smaller coastal communities, discovering that many are linked by fabulous decorative paved promenades or boardwalks. These run from Marbella west to Puerto Banus and then to San Pedro de Alcantara, a several kilometre but pleasant walk, with restos and cafes (great seafood!) punctuating the way. The same for east of here, between Fuengirola (the bus and commuter train terminus) and Carvajal, and this past weekend between Torremolinos and Plaza de Mayor on Malaga's western flank. I walked up from Torremolinos' underground train station to find myself in a teeming square of restaurants and shops, and, um, numerous Irish bars, with lots of Brits wearing green hats for St. Pat's Day and watching - what else - football/soccer.

Due to health reasons my partner is unable to join me in Spain this year. So I rejigged my return airfare to Canada by adding a multi city trip (box).  How so?  When I looked at booking a new one-way ticket home some itineraries had me change planes in "exotic" locales like Palma (Majorca) and The Azores. A lightbulb went on! How about I stay overnight for two or three days in each? The plane ticket wouldn't cost much more, I would just have to add hotels. So on the 31st I'll fly from Malaga to Palma for a couple of nights, then Lisbon for three and the Azores for two, then home. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

  

'Supercharger' supercharged my account; and am I in a time warp?

It's called a "counterintuitive approach" to learning Spanish. And it sounded great, as many good things do but which result in disappointment. Spanish Supercharger is a course by a supposed UK author named Luke Colley who may or may not exist. He never responded to my emails despite constantly asking for feedback. I'm not necessarily criticizing his learning method, which indeed may be a faster way of learning Spanish as it emphasizes using words and verbs that are most conversational as opposed to language apps (hello Duolingo, which I have long used) which are a little more abstract and "rarely applied in real life." So I bit and bought the course advertised on Facebook on discount for about $20 Can from Pound Sterling. Only I ended up getting charged $40+. And as I say "Luke" never responded to my emails. This is the second item I've purchased from a FB ad (the first, ill-fitting boots) which I've been disappointed in. And it makes me never to want to buy anything on FB again. 

Here are a few observations about life in Spain:

- I have yet to come across a retail store with self checkouts though apparently they exist. This includes everything from a convenience mini mart (my fave SuperCOR) to a Walmart like superstore (Alcampo). All cashiers all the time! I also like that at my local grocery (Carrefour, actually a France-based chain) you don't line up at individual checkouts but form a straight line and wait for the next cash to become free. Much more efficient. 

- Spain may be governed by a socialist party but the country still seems awfully politically incorrect, almost in a time warp. There are still cigarette machines - cigarette machines! - in stores and restaurants though smoking itself is curtailed.  As for marijuana, in case you were wondering, only through private clubs. And I have also yet to see a rainbow crosswalk.

- School buses are luxurious as per the pic (left). Intercity luxury coaches are simply chartered for school board use (see the yellow windshield card). Since Spain seems to be a country where efficiency is top of mind, does chartering private coaches save money over buying a school bus fleet? And for the bus companies they earn money when their coaches might otherwise not be in use during weekday hours?

- Speaking of buses, transit systems here still make change, something that went out in North America in the 1970s. I marvel at this given that drivers also have to concentrate, you know, on driving. Yet all are experts on both fronts. Drivers also are well-groomed and wear ties, a few notches of professionalism above North American standards. The local bus system in Marbella is also free to residents. 

- Motorists are awfully polite. Vehicles come to an abrupt halt when a pedestrian enters a painted crosswalk, and often if they're simply crossing a road, illegally or not. 

- The universal way to greet people is with the word "Hola" which seems to be a catchall greeting, used formally and informally, and could have wider meaning like "Hey." There's no English equivalent, that's why it doesn't seem weird saying it over and over and in almost every context. You can also use, for example, "Buenos dias" (good morning) or "Buenas tardes" (good afternoon) but more universally "Hola."

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

It's the Costa, baby, and I'm in with the in crowd

So, I’m back in Spain, the seventh time in eight years (one interrupted by the pandemic). It was a fluke how I found myself here. A friend belonged to a worldwide travel club which suggested a vacation in Andalusia, southwest Spain, the famed Costa del Sol to be exact. I’d travelled in Israel with her the previous year and having never been to Spain thought this would be a great place to check out. So, my partner and I joined Abigail for a trip to Marbella, the springboard for a multi city rail tour of España. I or we (my partner is incapacitated and can only spend limited time sway) have come here on the eastern flank of this charming if affluent city (Elviria, where Julio Iglesias is known to live) in a four star “apartment hotel”. It, (Ona Alanda), is resort-like but low key at least this time of year and the prices are amazing; about $100 Cad/night. (I just booked two weeks in Florida next Christmas at four-fifths the price of two months here.) I have a condo-like one bedroom, self-sufficient in this urban neighbourhood, dotted with small plazas with numerous restaurants, bars and boutiques. I'm also two blocks from the Mediterranean. When I’m staying here alone, I take public transit, with two local routes into Marbella Centro and one

to the, believe it or not, La Canada shopping mall, with a logo complete with a fir tree! If I want to go east to the bigger Malaga, I take a combo bus-suburban train, which also runs by the bustling airport. (Otherwise, when my partner Cathy is here we rent a car.) The weather isn't quite as warm as Florida but daytime temps are in the 60s and in direct sunlight the 70s and sunning in a bathing suit is quite comfortable. But this is a desert like climate, so temps drop in the evenings though all you really need is a sweater. The area is framed by the stunning Sierra Blanca mountain range. So, you have the best of both worlds -  mountains and sea. Beside the phenomenally beautiful and historic cities of  Malaga and Marbella southwestern Spain is strategically located for easy trips to British territory Gibraltar and one-hour ferries from Tarifa to Tangier, Morocco (you can see it across the strait).... My lengths of stay here have varied from a week to two months, which is the case this year. And while in some ways this area is ‘old hat’ I constantly discover new things and am surprised I hadn't found them earlier. Last Sunday, for instance, I walked seven km from Marbella along the shore (beautiful promenades filled with restos, bars and cafes) from Marbella to Puerto Banus

in the west, home to – shhhh! – shall we say the filthy rich, even reputedly underworld types and Russian oligarchs. But after a good seafood lunch  I head to the Red Dog Cinemas, then wait for the bus home at the Plaza Antonio Banderas (a regional native who has the Soho theatre in Malaga)  at the corner of Av de Julio Iglesias. I also discovered another elongated promenade east of Fuengirola (a small city between Marbella and Malaga).  Next weekend I’ll probably do another walk from Puerto Banus west to San Pedro Alcantara.....Yes this is a rather high end tourist area (great for fashionable people-watching and Porches and Land Rovers abound) and notorious for being frequented by the Brits. But there are also many Scandinavians and Germans. But even with this tourism Spaniards dominate because it’s their mecca as well. I’m actually happy I don't hear too many foreign tongues. And I’m more than happy when a Spaniard doesn't default to English as soon as I start speaking. Though so far this trip, I’ve held my own and maintained Spanish whenever I know the words and phrases, which incrementally - very incrementally - keeps increasing. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

A conversation requires two-way communication

So, there I was standing in the cold pouring rain at the corner of Sandwich & Alma waiting for the 605 to Windsor. Getting on I plunked in $4 for what I thought was a $3.75 fare. I'd checked. But apparently not enough, driver said. $5.25 from the 'burg since we’re “out” of Windsor. Fare enough (get it?) Three buses and two hours later I was at Windsor airport. Was it worth the slog through the rain and the transfers? Sure. I save $65-$75 compared to Uber. .... But the weather played havoc with my flight to Toronto. The last 6.45 pm AC flight was delayed to 7.10 then 7.20 due to late arrival from TO. Then we were “grounded” more than half an hour while awaiting something to do with weather and appropriate slots in TO; had never heard of that before.....I stepped off the plane 9.05 and my Frankfurt flight was departing 9.25. Anyone knowing TO airport knows the small regionals fly into the airport's far north end Concourse D, while European flights leave Concourse E. Believe it or not that’s about one mile distance. I did a combo run-walk, arriving at the gate about 9.22. Too late. The agents checked and the bridge had just swung away. Off to the AC service desk. A pleasant lady helped me get on an alt flight – that night or tomorrow? Seemed travelling that night would be awkward including a flight to

London Heathrow then a cross town transfer to London Gatwick (70 km). No thanks! So I stayed overnight at the airport Crowne Plaza, which was actually pretty good. An impeccable hotel room is always nice and a generous number of plump pillows even better.  I even slept in and checked out as close to 12 noon as possible as my rescheduled flight wasn’t until 4.30. AC also provided two $15 meal vouchers so I was in good shape for my new Frankfurt flight....The AC service rep had booked the last available seat on the new flight but I lucked out as it was on the aisle, my fave. But thank god I don’t check luggage anymore; god knows where my suitcase would have ended up, or where.  Probably Malaga, my destination, but when?....But what is it about fellow passengers? A seat companion is hit and miss, at least from a conversation standpoint. Half the time or more we’re on non-speaking terms if at least initial acknowledgement. This time my companion was a middled aged woman from Thunder Bay, flying to see her daughter in Germany. We began talking and she was pleasant enough but then the questions were all one-sided: me asking them, and I eventually ran out; there’s only so much I can ask about Thunder Bay. A conversation relies on a two-way process and this wasn’t evident.....Arriving Frankfurt and transferring between terminals, I noticed a  couple of things about my new gate. For one, there was a coffee machine (top photo), where fresh ground coffee was dispensed. I hadn’t seen anything like that before, even if you had to pay. Second, perhaps German efficiency (a stereotype) but boarding zone lanes were painted on the floor (photo). It wasn’t snowing in

Frankfurt but below zero and our A320 Lufthansa Neo taxied to a broad apron where four boom trucks dispensed de-icing fluid (photo). Wow. There was a fleet of them readying for every aircraft.....The under three-hour trip to Malaga was uneventful and I tried to get some shut eye. I got the window seat (beggars can't be choosers) and my middle seat companion was tall and kind of spread his legs, making me think of those NY subway ads admonishing men for just this behaviour.  He also didn’t talk. Fine....Upon arrival in Malaga all was sunny and a variety of narrow-bodied jets lined the boarding gates at this holiday destination – Ryanair (which even had airport buses), Wizz, EasyJet, British Airways, Vueling, Air France, Baltic. My silent companion didn't want to get up - “I’ll do so at the right time,” he said when I asked. Oh, okay, but I didn't want to wait until I was among the next to last passengers. And deplaning etiquette means passengers behind wait for those in front, which I kind of indicated to him. “Well, I’m getting off anyway,” I said. He then got up from his seat.....The delightful – and always surprisingly large – Malaga airport was teeming with people - largely holidaymakers - last/first weekend of the month, I suppose. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

A vacation home in Florida? You've got to be kidding

What is it about Florida vacation homes? Isn’t Florida supposed to be all about vacations, especially extended ones? My partner and I were thinking of returning for a winter Florida sojourn after several years away. We’d always loved St. Petersburg. St. Pete has the best of both worlds: a delightful, artsy, people-scaled city with lots of museums, restos, bars and cafes but close to extensive beaches, shopping, and entertainment. And if you want at a bigger city there’s Tampa across the bay with its frequent downtown festivals and Ybor City, the traditional Cuban neighbourhood with its quaint hand-rolling cigar factories, restaurants and clubs. So we went on Booking.com and checked long term vacation stays – specifically early 2026 – yes, a year away. We have now contacted four properties. Guess what? No or negative responses. The first was a typical Florida-style suburban house designed for a disabled person, as is my partner. It looked perfect and the price was right. But you couldn’t just book the property, you had to “request” to book. The owner had 24 hours to reply. In this case the dates for the “Luxury Oasis” house simply weren’t available. What?! The Booking.com calendar showed they were! The next property was further south off Tampa Bay as opposed to the ocean side. This time the owner responded but said he didn’t want to rent this far in advance, despite advertising. The third property was the “Seashell” home in suburban Pasadena, a nice three-bedroom corner house that looked accessible as a one floor bungalow with few stairs. But the reply: “Unfortunately the host has not responded, so your request has expired.” Why no response when the property is advertised?  My thought was I was booking too far in advance and since there was free cancellation up to November the owner couldn’t be bothered confirming for a possibly fickle customer. So I sent a second request and offered a deposit. Again no reply. The fourth property was a condo along a beautiful canal close to beaches near Pass-a-Grille in the far southwest corner of the metro area. The property, this time listed on the VRBO website, looked modern and comfy. But we needed some questions answered regarding accessibility. Again, no response. I even wonder if owners are scared away by a disabled tenant, fearing liability. Meanwhile, a problem with most properties is their severely limited accessibility, including Airbnb, even in retirement haven Florida! 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

Escape from the Caribbean? Yes

St. Lucia is one beautiful tropical paradise, hilly even slightly mountainous with of course the two iconic Pitons on the west coast. I’d never been in a place with lush jungle. The temperatures were great – mid-80s but “feeling like” low 90s. But not insufferable, as trade winds blue in and comfortably cut the heat. The problem was our accommodation. It’s a well-known resort in the northwest corner of the island which has four facilities within a mile or two of each other. We stayed in town, mainly because one of us is disabled and we wanted close access to stores and restaurants. The resort was smaller than expected though it did provide the most convenient first floor suite for someone in a wheelchair. Service was so-so. Breakfast was particularly bad. There seemed to be adequate staff but they didn’t circulate, meaning tables weren’t promptly cleared nor coffee or tea readily brought. The buffet was within a cramped room through doors and guests had to be served by hotel staff, not self-serve which is more common. Often staff were unsmiling and impersonal, giving the impression they had to get up and go to work in the morning. A few staff were courteous, including those at the pool bar which made fantastic and relatively cheap rum-filled drinks. And our maid was unfailingly polite and smiling even when we had an emergency. But service overall was middling. We had paid for “half board” covering breakfast but no other meals. We dined one evening and the bill with one Coke and one beer came to $171.63 CAD. From then on it was into town to grab take out at the only two outlets which seemed to be open – KFC (often crowded) and Subway though we did hit a ramshackle outdoor café that served a superb stuffed chicken dish, our trip highlight! The resort’s wi-fi worked literally off and on. Every second night brought loud bombastic music from karaoke or a guest singer/DJ. After asking five times over three days a shower chair was finally brought for my disabled partner but there was no way to get into the bathtub due to a partial solid shower wall. The resort seemed to still be operating on 1970s principles and required an audit by a hotel expert, overhauled top to bottom, from physical facilities to personal service, top of list have employees smile. And...we hated to have to wear “resort” bracelets (photo) - prisoner-like and so touristy! The adjoining town – more like village – was so-so, with a large grocery store (often packed with 15–20-minute checkout lineups), some boutiques and a few standalone restos. But the infrastructure was poor and the surroundings dirty. The beach was packed and while framed nicely by hilly outcrops the tide was in and there wasn’t a lot of space. The see-through teal colored water of travel brochures was non-existent. So, were we happy with our first Caribbean experience? We counted down the days.

Moving through Toronto’s Pearson Intl., CATSA (the government agency that oversees security) seems to never have got the memo about mobility chair batteries. The airlines require lithium batteries (photo left)  to be removed from checked wheelchairs. But we almost were not let through because a CATSA agent was highly suspicious of the black rectangular object! 

Finally, beware Canadian hotel telephone reservation charges. Twice now I have unwittingly been charged for calling a hotel and making a reservation, the latest being $17.99 and not being told there’s an additional fee. That’s opposed to booking through a third-party travel site at no extra charge. 

And yes, complaints have been made to all three organizations above.

 - Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

Trundling to the airport by transit, and Rouge to St. Lucia

Getting to Windsor airport is something to behold. I’m all an advocate of transit and it’s a hell of a lot cheaper to take the bus than to Uber or taxi. The problem is Transit Windsor doesn’t offer the most convenient way to get there, at least if you’re from Amherstburg. So, here’s my story. I caught the 605 bus one dreary overcast winter day at the corner of Sandwich and Alma streets, looking very strange toting a suitcase on my small-town streets. The bus was efficient and took me to the westside Hotel Dieu Grace health care terminal. There was a 1C bus right across the platform, which I transferred (free) to. The bus trundled thru Sandwich Towne and on to University Ave., gradually picking up passengers. This was a Sunday and I was surprised how many people used the bus – squeezed standing room only - virtually all of them apparently foreign students. I had researched the TW timetables and routes so knew I had to get off at the downtown “international” (i.e., for the tunnel bus to Detroit) terminal. There I cooled my heels for 15 minutes until a Walkerville 8 came. Again, the transfer was free. This journey appropriately took us through east side Walkerville’s residential streets, eventually winding up on Walker Road. The problem: for some reason the 8 doesn’t stop at the airport weekends or holidays. So, I had to get off at Walker & Provincial Rds. and walk two kilometres along Rte. 42 to said airport terminal. This was a slight challenge as there are no sidewalks and in winter the road’s shoulder can be muddy. I did try to walk on the road itself but two-lane 42 is, shall we say, rather busy. After 15-20 minutes I arrived – thank god! – and discovered that Windsor’s airport marketing name is “Your Quick Gateway” (airport code YQG) when all along I’d been calling it “Your Quick Getaway”…..On another occasion I took the bus during a weekday and the 8 serpentined well into burgeoning south Windsor suburban neighborhoods with the driver taking a break, before beginning the return journey downtown and only then making the pit stop at the airport. I also felt conspicuous since I was the lone passenger who got off at our international airport. As I say I like to support transit. But if flight schedules don’t align with bus (there are only four departures from A’burg) I’ll have to Uber/taxi, which last time cost around $75 one way with tip. If travelling only a week, I’ll simply drive, park in long term parking. Only $80 and, well, so convenient. 

We’re heading today to St. Lucia for a week, so obviously driving to the airport. I’ve never been that far south – or even to Caribbean – almost to South America. Why St L? During Covid it seemed to be the most open Carib island and had the best health protocols, so it stayed in my mind. Then I checked out the terrain and it has these Piton (volcanic) mountains. It’s a colonized island with French-English history. Towns have French names (the main language is Creole) yet governed by the English with driving on the left, etc. Flying first time Air Canada Rouge from Toronto (overnighting), AC’s discount/tourist brand with stripped down services. Have to grin and bear it, folks!

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

I'm of two minds about Air Canada's new carry-on fee

In one way I’m happy Air Canada will begin charging $35 for carry-on luggage - only on its Basic Economy fare - as well as nixing the ability to change seats at check-in. I didn’t even know you could do this til a couple of flights ago – it’s great to score an aisle seat! (Yesterday, flying back from London UK I has three seats to myself – whoopee.) I’d never been much of a carry-on person, usually having regular checked bags and just a small shoulder bag which I conveniently stowed under the seat. I would watch, sometimes smugly, as others boarded the plane – often delaying passengers behind them, a huge pet peeve – as they took time trying to load bags into the overhead and oblivious to everyone else. I also couldn’t believe the amount of carry-on some people brought and were permitted by the airline to bring. Some of those bags looked like they should have been checked. Anyway, it was only this fall that I bought my first wheeled carry-on so now I’ve joined the multitudes and cue up at the gate as soon as I can to make sure there'll be room in the bin above. One good thing is it forced me to pack lighter. Nevertheless, come Jan. 3 I’ll be dinged too unless I have a more upgraded fare. But $35 isn’t that much. One of the things I used to love about not having a carry-on was I could wait until all the rest of the passengers boarded before then slowly stroll up just before announcement, “all passengers should now be on board.” With no carry-on and a shoulder bag which could be stowed underneath I had no pressure to find an overhead spot. Now I don’t have that pleasure but let me tell you a roller bag is a hell of a lot easier to tote than a shoulder one. But the bulk of my flying involves transcontinental flights anyway which won’t be affected, just like being offered hot meals and free booze. (AC began serving free booze on flights in Canada and the US earlier this year, probably to complete with Porter Airlines’ new extended range flights; Porter has long offered free booze. AC never responded to my query about this). So, I’m of two minds. Just like everyone else I don’t like an extra fee. On the other if it cuts down on the amount of luggage people bring on board - and the delays to stow it – I’m happy. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

All's well that ends well, and in praise of hotels

Update on my ill-fated Athens vacay rental. As per last post I really thought I was being scammed. And who wouldn’t? After booking the rental and then not hearing back from owners after sending numerous emails, texts and making phone calls – to a number that didn’t work – what was I to think? It did cross my mind that something more serious had occurred, as in the owner (s) died, perhaps in a car crash. Perish the thought. But after several back and forth's with Booking.com – and even they not able to contact them, I finally got an answer. In fact, the owner had died! And sure enough, true to their word (I was doubtful), less than two weeks later Booking.com sent me a refund for the first half I'd paid of the two-week rental - $2532.35. After all, their credibility was on the line too. The Athens trip was supposed to have taken place over the past month. Now it will happen next August, and at the same vacation rental I stayed in last November and December (it wasn’t available this Fall). And a better location can hardly be found – one and a half blocks south of the Acropolis looking out on to the edifice by day (photo) and lit up by night  – in the sprawling fifth floor three-bedroom domicile with wide front and back balconies. August is super hot in Athens but I’m eager to try the beaches on the Attica Riviera peninsula just south of the city, and easily reachable by tram. 

But my penchant for Airbnb type rentals is wearing thin after a stay last month in London.  Upon arriving in the city I checked my email for check in instructions. Nothing! It wasn’t until midafternoon that the owner sent me the info on the street address, lock box code and specific room in the shared building. I’d been attending the London Film Festival and it wasn’t until a movie ended just before 4 pm that I got the instructions. This "delay" (though it seemed normal for the owner) produced quite a bit of anxiety on my first day in London, wondering if I'd have to scramble to find alternative accommodation. I’m heading back to London in two weeks (third time this Autumn and the city seems to be my new default) and booked a hotel close to where I stayed in Central Finchley, in the city's northwest. Guess what? No need for a private owner’s last-minute instructions, no hard-to-find address tucked away on a nondescript street, and no uncertainty as to exactly the kind of accommodation I would find. Maybe a tried-and-true hotel (including breakfast) is the way to go at least for short-term trips. 

I just booked a one-week trip to St. Lucia. It will be my first time in the Caribbean and after an ill-fated plan to go to the island fell through last January due to health issues. Yesterday I read the Wikipedia entry on St. Lucia, a member of the Brit Commonwealth, and love the place already – a democracy of almost 200,000 with languages of English and Creole French, with its unique Piton mountains, volcanic ridges – you can even enter one from the side - and dense rain forests (it’s close to South America).  Did you know it’s the only sovereign state in the world named after a woman?  

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller 

Vacation rental turned out to be non-existent

It couldn’t have been better, “Modern Apartment in Akropoli Area” not only was in the perfect Athens neighborhood, just around the corner from where I stayed last year. The apartment just south of the Acropolis was not only modern but fully accessible, a rarity in a private rental. The photos were gorgeous. (The apartment's still posted - photo left.) That’s important since my partner is disabled. Moreover, the owners seemed conscientious and caring. “Dear travelers, welcome to our city and we thank you for choosing our apartment for your stay. My wife Iphigenia and I wish you a beautiful stay in our city. I am an architect and an art photographer. I have studied architecture at the University of Florence in Italy. Iphigenia is a painter of Byzantine icons. Good taste and quality are our priority in our lives.” And the reviews gave it a 9.9 “exceptional” rating. After reserving for two weeks Oct. 26 – Nov. 9 I texted the couple to finalize arrangements: would they meet us, how would we obtain the key? This was late August and there was no response. I didn’t think much of it. Then, as the arrival date came closer, I started to text and email them again. Booking.com, where I booked the apartment, gave three ways to contact – email, text and phone. There were no written responses to several written attempts. I tried phoning on a number of occasions and each time the line cut out. Concerned, I called Booking.com, who assured me they would “launch an investigation” and tried contacting the owners themselves; they got no response. The first payment date, Sept. 25, came and I shelled out the 840 euros ($1241.54) still thinking the apartment wasn’t bogus. Increasingly worried in the final week before arrival I called Booking.com and asked to cancel the reservation and obtain a full refund. An agent said this wouldn’t be possible unless we arrived at the apartment and there was no one to greet us. What?! Would we have to stand on a public sidewalk, luggage in tow, and one of us in a wheelchair, trying to phone Booking.com and reserve another (accessible) rental? A nightmare! A couple of days later I called again and this time, as their "investigation" proceeded, an agent “assured” me I’d now get full refund. Since Booking.com couldn’t contact them, something was obviously up. But apparently one of the alleged owners did say they were “unable” to rent. This, after taking my first installment! At this point, I’m still awaiting the full refund and plan to contact Booking.com again this week. What about those “exceptional” reviews? Turns out they were not on Booking.com’s site but “based on 17 guest reviews from several other travel websites.” Booking.com said they vet rentals prior to advertising so what happened here? It makes me think certain unsavory actors post bogus sites – and this was a very sophisticated one – just to extract money.  

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller 

Surprisingly, lots of people don't travel

I don’t know about you, but I know a lot of people who either don’t travel, travel in a very limited fashion, or disdain travel. One person I know absolutely loathes every single aspect of travel, from packing bags to getting into a car to drive to the airport, to the airport check-in, waiting at the gate, the yuckiness of security, the turmoil of plane boarding, the bus/taxi connection to the vacation rental - you name it. She’d rather sit at home and watch travelogues or use me and travel vicariously! Ye even a mention of one of my upcoming trips leads her to sigh. Then there are others who only seem to travel within North America but never Europe or another continent, or if Europe only to the UK. I’m surmising this is partly because the language is the same and that a lot of people are intimidated by foreign languages and cultures, though English is widely spoken everywhere. I can understand if people can’t afford to travel, even for relatively short trips from one province to another or within a specific part of North America. But it’s people with money – often retired – who sit at home and do…..what exactly? That’s their prerogative. Yet I’m still puzzled. Why wouldn’t you want to open yourself to the wider world, experience a completely new location and culture? Another theory I have for why people don't travel is lethargy. They’re simply caught in a rut. I too know the feeling. A few decades ago, I had every opportunity to visit Florida year after year as a guest of a family member. But I turned invites down. Lethargy, lack of will, in a rut, same old same old, creature of habit. People complain incessantly about airports, line-ups, delays in boarding, bumping into other passengers as they stow bags overhead. These are my top complaints as well. Recently, the UK’s Daily Mail travel editor Mark Palmer responded to some of his high-profile journalistic colleagues, fed up with hassles, who are swearing off travel. Why, he replied, would you do that when despite airport and connection irritants it’s still easier to travel than it has ever been before. A few hours to cross the country, several to another continent, double to the other side of the planet. When has travel been so easy and affordable, especially with online booking and package holidays? So, when I travel (and curse) an overcrowded airport I wonder: just who are all these people travelling, because very few people I know do. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller 

The most nerve-wracking aspect of travel? Speaking a foreign language

The most nerve-wracking moments I have when travelling to a country that is not English-speaking is trying to speak with a local person. I’m in a dilemma. Do I try the few words I know of Spanish, German or French – and risk making a fool of myself – or default to English since chances are they will have better English than I their language? Sure, tour books and travel experts suggest speaking in the local tongue. Easier ‘said’ than done. I have long been studying French, German and Spanish (Duolingo). But when I get to Spain, Germany or France (or even Quebec) my mouth clams up. Partly it’s being thrown into a situation where I have to dredge up a language vocabulary on the spur of the moment and try to remember the words. It induces panic. And after fumbling with one or two words I default to English or, just as often, the other person converts. Then after a few minutes and away from the scene, I remember perfectly well what I could have said. So, despite at least a knowledge of several dozen words and phrases each in French, German and Spanish – and about five in Greek! – the only ones I tend to remember are very basic ones but at least deliver for the most common interactions. “Excuse me”, for example, is “Entschuldigung” in German and “Discuple” in Spanish. "Good day" in German is “Guten Tag and” “Buenos dias” in Spanish. “Breakfast” is “Frühstück” in German and “Desayuno” in Spanish, not to mention “Petit dejeuner” in French though a Quebec friend says that’s not the term used there. The most Spanish I have spoken was recently in Mexico City where surprisingly very little English is spoken. It forced me to recall as much Spanish as I knew. My hotel room shower didn’t have cold water so it was, “La dircha (should be ducha) tiene solo agua caliente.” It really got the point across and I congratulated myself on speaking a complete sentence. In fact, I love it when someone doesn’t speak English since it makes me use that country’s language. But I still feel uncomfortable even using extremely common terms like “have a good day” - in French “Bonne journée.” My Quebec friend makes goodnatured fun of my lack of French. One time I tried to speak in full sentences and he burst out laughing. So, as you see, you can’t win in the “language wars!” Finally, I feel guilty when it’s the other person always having to default to English, as if I’m a privileged English person who doesn’t have to do any of the mental work. I have one friend who waltzes into countries and never tries to speak one word of a foreign language and I think how rude. But maybe they've concluded it just isn’t worth the hassle. Rick Steves suggests always have a vocabulary of a dozen or so words and foreigners respect when you speak their language. I agree. But the difficulty, embarrassment and anxiety of trying to speak another language is something never discussed in travel guides. For me, it’s always been the most awkward aspect of travel. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller