Gatineau Quebec: there is no there, there

It was my first time staying in Gatineau Quebec. This is a city of almost 300,000 directly across from Canada’s nation’s capital, Ottawa, population now more than one million. While I lived in Ottawa for a few years back in the 1970s, and have been a frequent visitor since, I have never really spent any time in what used to be known as Hull, a rather dreary name, identified back in the day with a smelly and unsightly pulp and paper mill. The region is predominantly French as it is obviously located in Quebec. But one of the things that struck me most is just how overwhelmingly French the area is, given the fact it is immediately across from Ottawa in predominantly English-speaking Ontario and that the entire region has numerous government workers in Canada’s officially bilingual civil service. Wikipedia, however, says Gatineau is the "most bilingual city in Canada.” Could have fooled me. I’d give that award to Ottawa, which I always say is Canada’s long hoped bilingual model and which doesn’t exist anywhere else on such a scale. I was expecting to find a more interesting and diverse city, in the sense of varying neighbourhoods. For example, a traditional downtown shopping district or a bars and restaurants niche. No such luck. An Ottawa friend suggested there isn’t any such area. Ottawa, by contrast, is choked full of vibrant neighbourhoods, teeming with restaurants, bars, coffee houses and boutiques. On a balmy Saturday night this month it seemed the entire city was out, filling patios and walking along the streets enjoying a fantastic summer evening. Gatineau not so much. Upon first entering Gatineau on the main thoroughfare, the Portage Bridge over the Ottawa River connecting Ontario and Quebec, you encounter a massive cluster of 1970s-era high rise buildings. They were put there on the directive of former prime minister Pierre Elliot Trudeau, who wanted to provide the French side of the Ottawa River an economic boost which also accorded with his official bilingualism policy of more equality between the French and the English. That wasn’t a bad idea. But physically it resulted in a concrete urban wasteland. Looming government office towers created an empty street canyon, only peopled on a Saturday night with a few waiting at bus stops along the tunnel-like Boulevard Maisonneuve. These brutalist masses of concrete, so last century, would hardly be built that way today. Mind you, I didn’t drive around a lot of the city. But what I did see was endless boulevards and sprawl, and I did take a drive through Gatineau’s east side and out on to the highway to Montreal. But to be fair, the city did seem to have a nice park system in and around the Ottawa and conjoining Gatineau rivers. However, overall, I was left thinking of the famous quote by US writer Gertrude Stein about her hometown Oakland, California. “There is no there, there.”

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

After five years, I can finally reenter the US

I waited more than five years, but last Thursday I crossed into the United States for the first time since August 6, 2020. That was the day I not only was turned around by US Customs at the Ambassador Bridge (photo) connecting Windsor and Detroit. But I was officially banned for five years from entering the country. The reason? Violation of employment visa rules. I was stunned by the decision and virtually everyone I tell the story to has been as well. And there are many ironies. Admittedly in August 2020 the border was closed because of Covid. However, “essential workers” were allowed through. And in Windsor-Detroit there are literally thousand of health care workers (i.e., nurses) who are Canadian and work in Detroit hospitals, a little known fact to the outside world. So, people like nurses, construction workers and truck drivers – even conveyors like taxis – were allowed to cross. My "significant other" lives in suburban Detroit and I live in Amherstburg Ontario, roughly an hour drive away in decent traffic. She was injured in a catastrophic auto accident in 2013. Under Michigan’s no-fault auto insurance benefits – some of the most generous in the US (though now modified) - not only could she obtain paid caregivers to look after her at home but family members and friends could also be compensated for the role. I was approved by Metropolitan Life for just this purpose. I’d emphasized to Met Life that I was Canadian and after some checking they assured this would be no problem. I was paid regardless of where I took care of her – in the US, Canada or abroad, and for those hours when I was actually with her (i.e., a day, weekend or week while travelling). On that fateful day of August 6, 2020, I ventured over the Ambassador Bridge, the first time since the border had been closed due to Covid. When I showed up at the “primary inspection” booth I explained that I was an “essential caregiver” and used a pay stub from Met Life to prove it. That is what got me into trouble. I was directed to “secondary inspection” and subjected to fingerprinting and a lengthy interrogation, leading to a five-year ban from travel to the US. The reason? I was working “illegally." How could this be? I wasn't taking "a job" from a factory or office worker. I was being paid by an insurance company no matter where I "worked" - in the US, Canada or abroad. However, after announcing the ban the Customs officer told me I could apply for a waiver. But this was the time of Covid, much of the US bureaucracy was closed down and there was already a lengthy backup in applications. Moreover, it would have cost me upwards of $2000 to hire a lawyer. I could have done it myself but the  application was lengthy, technical and a few errors could have deep-sixed it. Moreover, my girlfriend was able to cross into Canada either by taxi or with a friend though the red tape during Covid was cumbersome including using the faulty and scandal-plagued ArriveCAN border app. So, I decided to wait the five years out and crossed for the first time last Thursday, Aug. 7 …… As for the crossing itself it was exactly the same as in pre-Covid days! Despite all the talk of Canadians boycotting travel to the US due to President's Trump’s tariffs I waited 45 minutes in traffic before getting to US Customs. Vehicles were backed up perhaps 30 cars in a row in each of the five lanes that were open. When I finally arrived at primary inspection the officer, to my mind, seemed a bit surprised that I had been banned for five years; he directed me to secondary. Another officer also seemed surprised. Finally, the examining officer who reviewed my case was nonplussed but I inferred also seemed puzzled by the decision. Each of these officers automatically asked, “Why didn’t you apply for a waiver?”  After 15 minutes I was released, free and clear to enter the United States once again.

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

Misreading a reservation - that's a first!

I am supposed to be in Bogota, Colombia. But, for the first time ever, I misread my ticket reservation! Yes, it said Friday July 25. And I showed up at the airport more than three hours ahead of departure at 1.55 am. I’d printed out the boarding pass a couple of days earlier, thinking this airline, Avianca, gives a lot of time to do so! When I got to Security the officer couldn’t read the QR Code. She was puzzled and called a colleague. Then it dawned. The ticket was the correct time, just the previous day! How could this have happened? I really can’t explain it except that since the departure was at 1.55 am I associated it with July 25 – as in arriving at the airport for that overnight flight. Rather than arriving at the airport on July 24 for the 1.55 departure on July 25. Get it? A cluster mind f--- admittedly. Then again, I’ve never left at such an ungodly hour. I immediately walked over to the Avianca (Colombia’s national airline) desk. Chuckling, the clerk couldn’t believe it either. But he eventually offered me a free one-way replacement ticket. That was generous. But as tonight’s other flight was full, he could only offer it for the next night’s flight. I started to walk away then turned and asked, “what about the return ticket?” He seemed to suggest I should “deal with that with the airline” as in phoning the call center. Mind you, I had just driven four hours from Windsor to Toronto and now had to drive all the way home, after two massive Hwy. 401 traffic snarls, arriving 4 am. I got four hours sleep. Waking, I wondered if it was still worth making the trip to Colombia since it would mean having to drive back to Toronto, a grueling task at the best of times. Then I thought: what the hell am I going to do the next five days at home – time I’d booked off anyway. So, I phoned the Avianca call center to try to claim the full ticket. After more than a half hour the agent said she couldn’t do it, saying the airport had made a mistake, and to return to the airport for the ticket. I got in the car and drove up the 401 once again. I parked, took the airport shuttle, arriving 8 pm, four hours before departure. Only to discover a massive line waiting for the desk to open. (Do all Colombians travel with checked baggage?) After more than an hour my turn came, I walked to the desk, explained my situation. The same dude who’d given me the free ticket the night before – the “supervisor” – was there and the desk clerk spoke to him. But they said the agent at the call center was wrong and a free return ticket couldn't be issued under any circumstances. But I could purchase one - for $791! That was more expensive than my original two way ticket - $785. I declined and walked away; I didn't want to go to Colombia that badly. Later it occurred to me that that “free” first ticket was nothing more than a coupon. The airline pretended it was being generous only to try to hook me into buying a needed return ticket. In other words, a way for the airline to make more money. 

Park 'N Fly: I tried Park 'N Fly for the first time. It’s a massive airport shuttle service from several neighboring Pearson airport lots. But when waiting for it at the terminal, the bus pulled up but the driver didn’t open the door. I waited and waited while he fiddled with his cell phone. What was he waiting for! After 10 minutes I finally caught his eye. I raised my voice and asked why he hadn’t opened the door? “Oh, you should have knocked on it,” he said, because some people mistake his bus for another shuttle and just walk on. He later apologized. But at least the gate attendant didn’t charge me for the five days I’d pre-booked. A small mercy.

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

Learning a foreign language? Forget it!

Learning a language for travel or just learning a language. I’ve pretty much come to the conclusion: forget it! This is all in theory of course. I still practice languages – French, Spanish and German. Spanish I find the easiest. The reason I started learning them (via Duolingo) is because of travel. I spend a lot of time in Spain, I go to Montreal frequently and occasionally I head to Germany, where I have friends. I usually practice for an hour every day. I just finished my Spanish routine for the day, as I’m heading to Spanish-speaking Bogota Colombia next. But, I ask you, what good does it do me? Regardless of the country I’m in I hardly ever know enough of the local lingo to strike up a conversation, let alone keep one going, or even to string together a basic phrase -i.e., do you have ketchup? ("Tienes ketchup") Even that is wrong as it should be “tienes el ketchup” since some languages are more formal than English. That’s why you hear people from other countries use articles “the this” and “the that” because that’s how they speak in their native tongue. Often, when in Spain or Germany or Montreal, when confronted with a question from a native, or if I need to ask the most basic question or make a statement, I get flustered or “freeze.” Yet a minute later, if I think about it, I would have been able to string at least a few words together to maybe have gotten my point across. The problem is that I never spend enough time in any country. At most I’m two months somewhere. I think if I’d spend six months I’d start to be fluent…I think. It does please me that I can at least say a few things, like “mi maleta” (my suitcase), “un boleto para Barcelona” (a ticket for Barcelona), or my fave in grocery stores, “dos bolsas por favor” (two bags please) or “tengo una bolsa” (I have a bag). It’s not that I don’t like speaking another language, I prefer it. And I know it brings an inner smile to the native person when I do so. (I feel guilty that they always have to change.) Now I’ll be heading to Greece at the end of summer. After Hello (“ya”), Yes (“nay”) thank you (“esfratistow”) that’s about all I can handle. Okay, I’ll try to learn a few more words, please! ("parakalo") 

Meanwhile, I’m heading to Colombia this month, my first trip to South America. It appears very Spanish, as in hardly anyone speaks English. I’m not intimidated since I have some Spanish – some being relative – and it forces me to use that language. I chose Bogota for three reasons: it has a superb Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) system and I’m a transit freak. It also has a great cycling network through I’m less a bike enthusiast. Its airport looks sprawling and hosts myriad international flights, indicating the scale of the city. And famed local coffee sellers in Windsor and Amherstburg, Monteneros, are from Colombia. Hey, you’ve got to have some reason to go, right? From a few pictures the city is surrounded by mountains so there might be some enticing walks and hikes. The city also seems to have a lively arts and gay scene, though I’m not gay. But after having signed on to several online Colombian travel groups, virtually everyone is not going to Bogota but to myriad other places including Medellin or Cartagena, or doing remote weeks-long cross-country expeditions, and all seem more sophisticated in their plans than me. I.e., “Are there buses that go from La Pintada to Peñalisa or Bolombolo that not go via Medellin?” or “From Filandia to Jardin with public transport on a Sunday. What is the best option?” I’ll keep you updated. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

Montreal's great, save the pavement

Montreal, my hometown (a native) is great. The neighbourhoods, downtown, the mountain, the food (bagels and smoked meat!) and the legacy of this ever-so-bilingual city, of writers, poets and yes, even politicians (a gas to see the intersection of Rene Levesque and Robert Bourassa boulevards) is great. Here are some observations after being away a couple of years. The city has increased bike lanes dramatically an the pioneering Bixi bike service - a huge local industry now delivering rental bikes to cities across N America - is incredibly popular. Despite the temptation to try one I prefer to walk, with fave routes along Rue Sherbrooke and the stairwell up the mountain to the "lookout" over downtown, and across to Mount Royal Cemetery, adjoining the Catholic Notre-Dames-Des Neiges, Canada's largest. Besides visiting relatives' graves I visited Leonard Cohen's (photo), rather commonplace and not surprisingly piled with stones. Then descending north into affluent Outremont and heading east to The Plateau, a fashionable district of bars and bistros, or west by Universite de Montreal (Ecole Polytechnique) and stumbling across College Jean-de-Brébeuf, the intellectually formative institution of former PM Pierre Elliot Trudeau. A new discovery was Little Italy in Mtl's northeast along the very pedestrian and vibrant Rue St Hubert and the Le Roi du Smoked Meat. It's always wonderful discovering a

new smoked meat place, this one opened in the year of my birth 1954! (For the record, I avoid the iconic Schwartz's, a tourist trap if ever there was one). I also noticed that the city's notorious law breaking traffic seems to be calming. Cars don't seem to speed like I remember and pedestrians actually obey Don't Walk signs. I put it down to changing generations. There are still problems. The city's roads are in terrible shape. Rue Sherbrooke and The Boulevard - two showpiece streets - have great swathes of uneven pavement, patched asphalt, and potholes big enough to hold cats. Where does all the tax money go? On a visit to Beaver Lake the curb ramp next to handicapped parking was disintegrating (photo), an obstacle for wheelchairs as my partner is disabled (I posted on a Mtl FB group and got numerous sympathetic comments, and yes I've complained to the city.) Moreover the city's great transit system could use a do-over in the fare dept. My 'Opus' smart card from two years ago still had four fares on it but they had expired! Mtl should join other cities and allow credit and debit cards. The airport is still an horrendous mess. I needed to pick up my partner last weekend and was glad I took the bus there and taxi returning. Traffic was so bad it took half an hour just to reach the terminal from the ring road let alone trying to find a parking spot. But a newcomer might be hard pressed to believe this is a French city. Yes, the signs are mostly 'en Francais' but the conversations on the street, especially downtown, often are more English than French. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

It took five months but finally an apology from airport security

On Jan. 16, I posted about the hassle we endured by airport security at Toronto Pearson. Our mobility chair (my partner is disabled) has to be shipped separately from the lithium battery (left), which we carried on board as per airline regulations (no batteries allowed for safety reasons in cargo hold). But an agent didn't recognize it and held it for several minutes despite the fact I told her what it was. Who knew what was going through the glum staffer's mind but she was obviously suspicious. She consulted with other security and finally a supervisor, who told her to release it. After arriving home I complained to CATSA Jan 9 and finally got a reply May 28. (I'd all but given up hearing from them.) Here it is: "Good day Ronald, On behalf of the Canadian Air Transport Security Authority (CATSA), I wish to respond to the concerns you brought to our attention on January 9, 2025, regarding your pre-board screening experience at Toronto Pearson International Airport. Upon receipt of your complaint, a detailed review was initiated, including viewing the video footage and consulting with our regional management. Our regional management was able to identify the screening officers you dealt with on that day and review your screening experience. Our review resulted in actions and the necessary measures have been taken to prevent this type of situation in the future. We regret that your screening experience was unpleasant. We appreciate that security measures can sometimes be challenging and time consuming and we regret that this incident was upsetting to you. Please be assured that your feedback allows us to review our current services and improve the passenger experience at all airports across Canada. CATSA plays an integral role in the Government of Canada’s aviation security system and takes pride in serving the travelling public. While security is CATSA’s top priority, we also strive to maintain a high level of customer service and professionalism. We trust that your future travels will be pleasant. Sincerely, Patricia Gusta, Coordinator Client Satisfaction, Canadian Air Transport Security Authority (CATSA) 

This wasn't the first time my partner's disability triggered a false alarm. Three years ago, in Frankfurt, security detected something in her carry-on. Next thing we knew two guards with machine guns had been called over. I'm pleased to say that was resolved rather quickly. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

Flying or driving? Even with Air Miles the price is basically a wash

I’m planning to travel to Montreal for a month. The concern was whether to drive or fly. I was going to drive if my partner, who is disabled, was to join me at some point. Otherwise, I thought, I’d fly. But only if I was to use Air Miles. I have more than 7100 Air Miles. To fly to Montreal (return) would cost me 4700-5100 Miles depending on the flight. In addition, there is a “taxes & fees” charge of $192 to $225 so let’s say $200. And checked luggage would likely be at least $25 each way so $50. The departure time from Windsor is inconvenient to take a local bus to the airport so that means Uber which today is $48.56 but can vary and with a tip I’ve paid as much as $65. Meanwhile in Montreal I was planning to take a weekend jaunt to Ottawa to see friends. According to Rome to Rio, the bus fare to Ottawa is $30-$65 and train $30-$120 one way so let’s say $50. Meanwhile driving from Windsor to Montreal is $176-$254 so let’s say $200 as I don’t drive a gas guzzler. Add another $150 for the month including the trip to Ottawa as I otherwise don’t use my car much in Montreal. Parking at my rental is $150......So let’s do the math. Should I fly the cost would be $65 (Uber), $200 (airfare), $50 (luggage), $100 (Ottawa trip) for a total of $415 and with local transit, say $450. Driving is $350 (gas, at the high end) plus $150 (parking) for $500 total. Basically a wash! (By the way, bus and train prices Windsor to Montreal are roughly $100 - $300 each way.) Yes, flying time is less. But the most convenient flight leaves 1.50 pm and arrives, with a change, at 8.20 pm – six and a half hours plus Windsor airport travel and wait time of at least two hours – eight and a half hours total. And then the roughly one-hour transit ride in Montreal. So, nine and a half hours. Driving takes about 10 hours. Negligible! Yes, it’s more straining to drive but I avoid the airport hassle and I have the convenience of a car including the weekend jaunt to Ottawa. And I don’t have to worry about how much luggage I take for a month-long stay. I think I’m driving.

Mind the gap? I almost got sucked into it

I am a regular visit to London and this month flew over for just over a week stay. I’m starting to call it my “London fix.” If I haven’t been there in a certain amount of time (a month or four or five) I’ve got to get over there again. This time I took Air Transat from TO, arriving Gatwick. The last time I used Gatwick was in November 2002, in the aftermath of 9/11, when no one except me and a couple dozen other souls – if that – were on a then Northwest (now part of Delta) DC 10 flight from Detroit to London. I pride myself on figuring out logistics but, boy, did I screw up this time. Arriving Gatwick I reached for the train terminal into town. I found the cavernous hall and saw Thameslink (railway) departure on Platform 6. I arrived at said platform and the trains were going the opposite way, south to Brighton. Asked a couple of people and no one seemed to know since all tourists. I find a high-vis jacket RR employee and ask. “Oh, you should be on Platform 4” and it’s just coming in now.” Thx! Up the stairs I go and then down again to Platform 4. Or what I thought was. There was a train parked and since I’d been told it was “coming in” assumed that was it. I hesitated then made a go for it. As I did the train doors slammed shut. They caught my leg and threw me backwards on to the platform, while the train was moving. I had visions of being dragged and felt my rump slowly sinking into the “gap” between platform and train. Fuck! In situations like this a few split seconds can seem like eons and I wondered why the train wasn’t stopping and why the hell the doors not automatically opening. Aren’t they designed to do that? But thankfully it did stop. Almost immediately I felt someone with very strong hands grasp both my armpits and try to lift me up. I shouted, “I’m okay I’m okay!” But my left leg wasn’t. It was sore because the door hit my fibula (? outside bone). I wondered if I’d be able to walk for the subsequent week in London. Thankfully I was and really wasn’t sore only if I touched at rest. That’s my story of (not) minding the gap!

While in London last week I encountered several “51st state” jokes when I mentioned I was from Canada. A tour guide brought it up immediately touring an historic military installation (Uxbridge, Battle of Britain Bunker airborne HQ) – “you might have to defend yourself!” – and from a fellow tour mate. “Elbows up!” she joked. Even the Brits knew the phrase.

And a few London-off-the-beaten-track tips. I’d always wanted to tour the Houses of Parliament. And it proved very easy. Check app when Parliament in session, line up at the Cromwell Green Gate, and wait to be guided in. As a foreigner chances are you won’t attend PM’s

Questions (tickets reserved for constituents) but general Commons Questions or debates - as I did - or committees meetings. I also ended up getting an overall tour of the place by unknowingly crashing a private constituents’ tour. Talk about backhanded luck!...Also under the radar are Abney Park in Stoke Newington, a magnificent overgrown cemetery with tombs falling into one another, the Greenwich Foot Tunnel in far east London, a century old pedestrian tunnel under the Thames (free) and the Thames cable car (IFS Cloud) between North Greenwich and Canning Town, also east London - inexpensive. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

London calling but apply for that ETA first!

I have applied for Britain’s new (as of this year) ETA visa, the first of what will be another electronic visa (ETIAS) non-Europeans will have to obtain prior to travelling to the 29 country Schengen Zone. That second visa keeps getting delayed and is now scheduled to come into effect late next year. But I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s delayed again, as various countries have to sync their Customs and electronic systems to accept the new ID. It’s all about security, you see. But Britain successfully launched theirs’ Jan. 8. I’m heading to Blighty this weekend so applied a few weeks ago. It’s a relatively simple online application. It costs 16 UK pounds or just over $30 CAD and lasts two years. The application asks basic information. It took about five minutes and you upload your passport after a few security questions and essentially syncs the “visa” to your passport. So that all you presumably show or insert into a security gate is your passport as you did in the past.! The last couple of times I entered the UK, crossing the border was a breeze. All I had to do was insert my passport into the turnstile-like gate, which read it, and a door opened and I was allowed through and on my way; no need to talk to a Customs agent. 

London has become my new “go to” city. After spending two months there in fall 2023 I was there three times late last year and now for the first week of May. In 2023 I stayed in a shared (with the owner) Airbnb on the border of Hackney and Islington in NE London, half a block from the magnificent Regent’s Canal. Last year I/we stayed at a small hotel on the South Bank near Westminster Bridge and then in Central Finchley in far northwest - but well built up – London. This time I’m staying even further out in Harrow, site of the famous Harrow Public (private) School, whose alumni include several prime ministers, Royal Family members and Nobel winners. That’s not why I’m staying there. After swinging through the area on a city bus last December the “high (main) street” looked magnificent with shops, cafes, pubs and restos. It looked like a great place to spend a week. And despite its relative distance from central London it’s still London and connected by the Metropolitan tube line from “Harrow on the Hill” station.

I’ve also settled on a regular hotel chain for London stays. I found Travelodge to be absolutely great. In North America Travelodge, as I  remember it, was a tired chain with humdrum amenities. Sorry if they’ve improved. But in London they have been completely refreshed with modern sparkling clean rooms with midcentury Scandinavian-type furniture, funky colourful resto-bar (opened all night for food) (photo) and a great hot breakfast. The price is reasonable enough. The chain has locations throughout greater London so you can choose a different location each time to get a better feel of the city’s neighbourhboods.

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

Contrast in attire between flight crews and passengers could not be greater

After travelling through six airports, in North America and Europe, the first week of April, one thing caught my attention. The footwear and more generally clothing of my fellow passengers. Almost universally running shoes or as the British call them “trainers” or a version thereof. It was quite remarkable how running shoes have almost become the universal norm of attire at least for travelers. Besides shoes the top form of garment is athletic wear especially on women and jeans on men. And don’t forget sweats and the universal hoodies especially on younger passengers. As for me, a shoe in between formal and trainer - kind of like what waitstaff wear - and creased “formal looking” yet casual lightweight and wicking golf pants. It’s also a visual phenomenon the clash between the typical airline passenger and airline flight crews. Pilots still look like they always have, in crisp suits, hats, white shirts and ties. A similar look, minus caps, for male flight attendants. And female flight attendants look like they eternally have – skirts or tailored slacks, heels and blouses and tunics with often stylized hats. It seems that in the airline business the iconic traditional crew look remains, continuing I suppose the mystique of air travel. Long may it continue! As for the passengers…

Having travelled on three different airlines crossing the Atlantic over the past year I must say Air Canada, for all the derision it takes, is still the best. Its long haul flights to Europe still offer free wine and beer and a superb seatback entertainment system with myriad movies, TV and music choices. This contrasts with my Azores Airlines flight last week that had no seatback system, no free booze and a smaller portion dinner tray. Same for SAS (Scandinavian). Yes, it had seatback entertainment but not with the breadth of programming offered by AC. The dinner was okay but again no free booze.

Arriving in Montreal’s Trudeau airport last week I was surprised to still see separate Customs lines for people using the ArriveCAN app (image). They were mostly empty of course for this pandemic-era app that often didn’t work (I was almost stuck in Athens back in 2021) and scandal-plagued cost and how it was awarded contractually.

Two minor missteps: At the Ponta Delgada airport in the Azores, trying to find a fountain to fill up my water bottle and told there was one beside security I moseyed over until I heard a stern “Sir!” as in "you-are-not-supposed-to-here!" And then on the flight from Mallorca to Lisbon I was told to remove my jacket that was draped over the back of my seat exposed to the passenger behind me. I had done so upon boarding with an empty seat behind but should have known better.

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

How to be an untourist

Arriving in Lisbon (Lisboa) I hadn't researched a thing about the place. Call it laziness, as I'm increasingly neglectful of looking up the places I'm travelling to. I'll deal with it when I get there, I suppose. The arrival in from the airport (named Humberto Delgado, a national hero and early admirer of Hitler who started TAP Portugal's national airline, though he seemed to become more a democrat later, and was assassinated). All you need is a credit/debit card for the metro, and it was an easy two line transfer to the station closest to my hotel. The next morning I set out down my street, a main one called Ave Almirante Reis, heading, I thought, in the direction of the port. I hadn't looked up any historic sites or museums. I simply headed off. And lo and behold, after a half hour, I was in the city's historic centre, jam packed with colonnaded arcades, monuments and restaurants  (I thought the Greeks are big on food, the Portuguese could give them a run.) Ah, here is the tourist mecca! I kept walking to the waterfront and wandered through the vast and stunning Praça do Comércio. Then along the waterfront where three massive cruise ships, which had disgorged their passengers, were tied up. I kept walking not at all knowing where I was going. When the port road went no further I started walking inland and up the hills with their narrow ever-so-cobblestoned streets (and sidewalks made out of the smallest stones, some with inlaid crest-like designs called Calçada Portuguesa ). And all of sudden I was again in "tourist central" near the famed St. Mary cathedral. Wow, the tourists were in droves! Conga lines up and down each side of the street. Obviously they were seeing "the sights" with pre-planned guidebooks and maps. I just happened upon it. In fact, in all my travels in Europe, I have seldom seen so much tourism except, say in London or Prague. So is this "over tourism?" The Portuguese seem to like it since there are myriad restaurants catering to the crowds. Fine, but being an "untourist" means no "preset" discovery, not fallowing the crowd, and discovering for yourself, where even the obscure nooks and crannies can reveal riches.  

Which brings me to the subject of photos. I, like everyone else, has long desired to take the "just the right" pic of a cityscape or historic site. But this trip I've changed. Sure, I might take a pic of that historic church or castle (no monuments please). But I will often take it in its present day reality. If that means there's a construction crane to the side, or traffic in front, so be it. It gives a sense of what the city is really like. 

Airline online check-ins can be problematic. Flying from Malaga to Majorca on Spain's discount airline, Vueling, online check-in was only in Spanish. I used a translator but still messed up. I thought I'd selected an option which allowed a carry-on in addition to an "under the seat" bag. Nope. Despite paying $66.80 CAD for just the under-the seat (with seat selection!) I got to the boarding gate and was dinged another $95.71 to bring the overhead on board. And today, checking-in on TAP for my next flight to The Azores, the same problem. My Booking.com receipt allowed one overhead in addition to the under-the-seat. Yet the TAP website asks if I want to put a bag in "hold" for an additional price. Screw that. I'll check in, in person, at the airport (no charge) like I did my last flight to Lisbon and pay only one fee, and hopefully not that. 

- Ron Stang, a frequent traveller, Windsor Ontario Canada

Getting out of a local travel rut, and flying multi-city for the price of one way

It's amazing how getting out of a travel rut opens a whole new experience. Ergo, right? I'm speaking specifically about the Costa del Sol in southern Andalusia, Spain, where I've been visiting the last several years. For years, I've relegated myself to the cities of Marbella and Malaga, all within a short bus-train or car ride away. Sure, I've taken day trips to Ronda, Seville, Cordoba, Grenada, Cadiz or Gibraltar. But locally only Marbella and Malaga. Marbella is the smaller with its exquisite old town, Salvador Dali sculpture garden and beachside promenade. Malaga, the birthplace of Picasso, has a startlingly beautiful and immense cruise ship waterfront lined with bars, cafes and boutiques, a magnificent old town, Roman amphitheatre and Moorish fortress, which one can climb up to for a stunning view of the harbour, city and mountainous backdrop. But on my current trip I decided to break out of the mold and explore smaller coastal communities, discovering that many are linked by fabulous decorative paved promenades or boardwalks. These run from Marbella west to Puerto Banus and then to San Pedro de Alcantara, a several kilometre but pleasant walk, with restos and cafes (great seafood!) punctuating the way. The same for east of here, between Fuengirola (the bus and commuter train terminus) and Carvajal, and this past weekend between Torremolinos and Plaza de Mayor on Malaga's western flank. I walked up from Torremolinos' underground train station to find myself in a teeming square of restaurants and shops, and, um, numerous Irish bars, with lots of Brits wearing green hats for St. Pat's Day and watching - what else - football/soccer.

Due to health reasons my partner is unable to join me in Spain this year. So I rejigged my return airfare to Canada by adding a multi city trip (box).  How so?  When I looked at booking a new one-way ticket home some itineraries had me change planes in "exotic" locales like Palma (Majorca) and The Azores. A lightbulb went on! How about I stay overnight for two or three days in each? The plane ticket wouldn't cost much more, I would just have to add hotels. So on the 31st I'll fly from Malaga to Palma for a couple of nights, then Lisbon for three and the Azores for two, then home. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

  

'Supercharger' supercharged my account; and am I in a time warp?

It's called a "counterintuitive approach" to learning Spanish. And it sounded great, as many good things do but which result in disappointment. Spanish Supercharger is a course by a supposed UK author named Luke Colley who may or may not exist. He never responded to my emails despite constantly asking for feedback. I'm not necessarily criticizing his learning method, which indeed may be a faster way of learning Spanish as it emphasizes using words and verbs that are most conversational as opposed to language apps (hello Duolingo, which I have long used) which are a little more abstract and "rarely applied in real life." So I bit and bought the course advertised on Facebook on discount for about $20 Can from Pound Sterling. Only I ended up getting charged $40+. And as I say "Luke" never responded to my emails. This is the second item I've purchased from a FB ad (the first, ill-fitting boots) which I've been disappointed in. And it makes me never to want to buy anything on FB again. 

Here are a few observations about life in Spain:

- I have yet to come across a retail store with self checkouts though apparently they exist. This includes everything from a convenience mini mart (my fave SuperCOR) to a Walmart like superstore (Alcampo). All cashiers all the time! I also like that at my local grocery (Carrefour, actually a France-based chain) you don't line up at individual checkouts but form a straight line and wait for the next cash to become free. Much more efficient. 

- Spain may be governed by a socialist party but the country still seems awfully politically incorrect, almost in a time warp. There are still cigarette machines - cigarette machines! - in stores and restaurants though smoking itself is curtailed.  As for marijuana, in case you were wondering, only through private clubs. And I have also yet to see a rainbow crosswalk.

- School buses are luxurious as per the pic (left). Intercity luxury coaches are simply chartered for school board use (see the yellow windshield card). Since Spain seems to be a country where efficiency is top of mind, does chartering private coaches save money over buying a school bus fleet? And for the bus companies they earn money when their coaches might otherwise not be in use during weekday hours?

- Speaking of buses, transit systems here still make change, something that went out in North America in the 1970s. I marvel at this given that drivers also have to concentrate, you know, on driving. Yet all are experts on both fronts. Drivers also are well-groomed and wear ties, a few notches of professionalism above North American standards. The local bus system in Marbella is also free to residents. 

- Motorists are awfully polite. Vehicles come to an abrupt halt when a pedestrian enters a painted crosswalk, and often if they're simply crossing a road, illegally or not. 

- The universal way to greet people is with the word "Hola" which seems to be a catchall greeting, used formally and informally, and could have wider meaning like "Hey." There's no English equivalent, that's why it doesn't seem weird saying it over and over and in almost every context. You can also use, for example, "Buenos dias" (good morning) or "Buenas tardes" (good afternoon) but more universally "Hola."

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller