Bogota is one of the highest cities in the world at 8596 ft. It also goes by the name DC just like Washington, because it’s the capital. Its pop is 8 mil, 11 mil if you count the suburbs.
I went there because I was fascinated by the city’s pioneering TransMilenio Bus Rapid Transit system, which I first read about in transit & travel writer Taras Grescoe’s book Straphanger. Being a transit freak I knew I had to check this out. I missed my plane last year – seriously (see post July 27, 2025) - and eventually rebooked the end of August. So yes, I spent a day riding the system, with mixed results.
But first, a few things about Bogota and Colombia. For one, inhabitants speak next to no English. I’ve never been in a foreign city where English is so little spoken, though Mexico City comes close. I’m not complaining. I have about 100 Spanish words and phrases and there’s always Google Translate. But it was still difficult. Otherwise, the city is fairly normal, with a range of social classes and neighbourhoods from the outlying sometimes desperately poor barrios to affluent northern districts. I stayed in Chapinero, just north of downtown, in the perfect boutique hotel, Abitare 56. Yes, I had trepidation before I went, not least after I read a story about an orthodox New York Jew who went there to meet a bride and was killed and his body chopped up. But after arriving I really felt safe and didn’t even encounter any menacing personalities though the streets were bustling and pedestrians everywhere. Getting around? I walked, as my want in exploring places, interminably, though I did take up the slack with public transit, a confusing array of various coloured buses with arcane route numbers mixing letters and numbers. You need a reloadable smart card to use the system. Often the buses were packed and you had to stand for long durations as the routes were long. Strangely the buses had turnstiles. To open you had to tap your card but then slide through a narrow gate. But one of the neatest things was the TransMiCable cable car line, a series of stations that transport you up a mountain and over some and into the poorest burrios. The ride down on a packed bus through narrow twist and turn streets was shall we say an experience.
Tour highlights (I tour myself, and don’t take official tours as much as I can help it), included the famous Monserrate, where another cable car takes you atop a mountain with an outstanding view of the city. The Fernando Botero museum was a knock out, the artist internationally acclaimed. The Gold Museum was interesting as the city seems to identify itself with the luxury metal, as per the name of the city’s airport. Cafes are everywhere but it was difficult to find open patios, especially ones that served alcohol. There is also a strong cycling culture with dedicated lanes on virtually every street, pedestrians and cyclists seemingly respecting each other’s turf.
There is a mix of architecture - from downright Brutalist 1970s era concrete ugliness to delightful classical buildings that make you think of Ivy League universities.Now for the reason I came, riding the Transmilenio. Think of it as an above ground subway. Buses run on dedicated lanes. You can only board at designated stations about six blocks apart and pay at the station entrance. The buses are “articulated” in two or three segments. The concept is great, the execution not. And it’s probably a victim of its own success. So many people rely on it that the vehicles are extremely crowded, uncomfortably so. There is often standing room only and sometime literally shoulder to shoulder over long distances. Moreover, there are the usual transit jerks. Like musicians who insist on turning their amp full volume. Or touts who shout in your ear (one was right behind me and felt his spit) ad nauseum. It got to such a point that I started calling the system the "torture-milenio" and even vowed “never again” to ride it. Well, I didn’t have to, I don’t live there.
- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller























