Kahlo and Trotsky, Torre Latinoamericana and Alameda Central - that's a start

I’m preparing for Mexico City. Well, yes and no. I’ve done as much research as I want online but still don’t really have a good gauge of the city. It is sprawling. 22 million inhabitants. Yes, the biggest metropole in North America – take that New York! What are the attractions? Not quite sure. There is a cathedral. One thing I like is the city excels at art galleries, including several contemporary ones. One place I want to go to is the Museo Frida Kahlo/Casa Azul (Blue House), the fame artist’s (and Detroit hater) former residence. I also want to go to the Leon Trotsky (Museo Casa de Leon Trotsky, as it happens to be called), just a few blocks from Frida’s. I got tickets for Frida - expensive - $53.37; I’ve never paid that much for a museum. Couldn’t get a response from Trotsky but understand it’s not expensive and hardly anyone goes. Why Trotsky? For lovers (or not) of history that’s where Lenin’s agents assassinated him with an ice pick – yikes - in 1940. The city seems to have a superb transit system, enormously better than any in Canada or the United States. Twelve subway lines, express metrobuses on dedicated lanes, myriad local bus and trolley routes. Fares are ridiculously cheap: 5/6 pesos (1 Canuck dollar = 13.3 pesos). I’ll buy a transit smart card upon arrival at Benito Juarez Intl Airport. (Juarez was the first democratically elected indigenous president in the postcolonial Americas serving in the late 19th century). My plane lands at 10.50 pm and transit stops at midnight. I would love to immediately sample transit but the timing cuts a little close so will opt for a taxi. That’s after I’ve also visited an ATM to withdraw cash, one of my first protocols upon arriving in a different country. I understand cash is more king in Mexico (I’ve never been to the country) than in North America. When I was in Morocco last year cash was definitely king; almost like they hadn’t heard of bank cards.) I’ve chosen what looks like a great hotel on the edge of the Centro Historico (historic district), the Cadillac Boutique. It’s highly contemporary and has an artsy flair and the breakfasts seem tremendous (breakfasts are always a major factor when I’m booking a hotel). A Google Street View of the area makes it look like I could easily get lost. But the hotel is half a block from another main street upon which several blocks up is the iconic Torre Latinoamericana (photo), the city’s first post-war skyscraper designed to withstand earthquakes. It’s across the street from the vast Alameda Central Park as well as museums. If I get lost, I can use it for bearings. The weather should be cooler than here, perhaps because of the city’s 7349 ft. altitude, though it seems to rain every night. Hasta luego!

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

How to tell a "tourist" from a "traveller"

There was an interesting poll in the UK the other day, determining who can be defined as a “traveller” and not a “tourist.’ Let’s face it, the concept of a tourist has been derided over the years, inspiring images of men wearing plaid shorts with straw fedoras and Kodak Instamatics around their necks, a mid-1960s  holdover. The term is synonymous with superficiality and the "stereotyped Westerner" who eschews local hotels and food to boot. Perish indulging in something “foreign.” A traveller, on the other hand, connotes someone who wants to dig digger into local culture, frequents pieds-a-terre and tries earnestly to “live like a local” including dining at any place that is anything “touristy.”  A traveller inspires images of gap year backpackers across Europe and Asia, staying in hostels, and reading the works of Lord Byron, Jan Morris and Paul Theroux. Oh, and Frommers’ Europe on $25 a Day (I still have the book) the amount since increased dramatically. According to the survey 42 per cent of people said the best example of being a “seasoned traveller” is “a tatty passport full of stamps.” If so, I qualify, with 12 pages of stamps in my passport which was issued in June 2018 (photo). More than this, I have stickers festooned to the outside, including one from Health Canada during the pandemic, four little security stickers from god-knows-where-countries, and a couple of large stickers so mangled I can’t figure out what they are. But I do think my passport is impressive holding in my hand standing in line waiting for my turn at Customs. Other survey "traveller" criteria were: “backpacking tales to wheel out at dinner parties” (28 per cent) – I don’t backpack so fail there; “putting souvenirs from your trips on your walls at home” (27 per cent) – I generally don’t but now have four or five on my fridge; “pronouncing certain foreign words” (10 per cent)” such as pho, chorizo and nduja. I don’t know what the last one is and I pronounced pho like 'PHOto' when it’s “fuh.” Oh, yes, and another sign that one’s a real traveller is they have a travel blog. Bingo! 

I read the British press, with their extensive travel pages, especially the Daily Mail. There are certain British terms that will never ever be changed, such as “mum” for mom, “biscuit” for cookie, “crisps” for potato chips, “car hire” for car rental and “holiday” for vacation. A Brit will never say a “round trip” ticket but a “return.” So set in their ways I’m always tempted to interject that I’m on “vacation.”

Speaking of Brits, when I was in England last fall – and travelling extensively by trains – a recurring public service announcement was about abandoned luggage being a possible terrorist threat. The announcement ends with “See it, say it, sort it” as in authorities will “sort” the matter. I’d never heard the word used that way but it’s British vernacular for resolving an issue. Like “Mind the Gap.” Sort of.

Another puzzle is why some tourists (or travellers) plastic shrink wrap their suitcases (photo left). I went into a luggage shop at Heathrow and asked the question. “Oh, it’s because in some countries, unscrupulous airport personnel will pry and steal suitcase contents.” Good to know, I suppose.  

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

Anti-tourism protests give second thought to next getaway

With anti-tourism protests breaking out in popular Mediterranean tourist destinations like Majorca, Ibiza, Barcelona and Venice, it’s making me think twice about where I want to spend my next getaway. And it’s also made me think about the type of accommodation to book. The anti-tourist protests by locals are directed at two fronts. One is literal overcrowding. Tourists were recently turned away at a famous Majorcan beach by police as locals were determined to occupy every square foot of it. Reports the UK Sun, "Anti-tourism protesters plan to bring the Balearic Islands to a standstill during the peak season for British holidaymakers. Activists hope thousands will join the biggest demonstration yet in the Spanish tourism hotspot on Sunday, July 21 — just as many UK schools break up for summer and families head for the sunshine." Needless to say, Brits like going to Spain. The other is that short-term accommodations like those on Airbnb, Vrbo and increasingly Booking.com are crowding out cheaper year-round housing for locals. Barcelona, which has seen rents jump 70 per cent in recent years, has just banned Airbnb’s. It’s obvious why a landlord would opt for short term vacation rentals over year-round housing because they can charge tourists more for that same property and have constant turnover. It was the opposite of where I stayed in Florida a few years ago. There, the owner, who had a block long campus of vintage cottages, converted to long term rentals because she couldn't handle the stress of constantly dealing with new tenants. My recent winter home has been in Spain, where protests have also sprung up in nearby Malaga. But, lucky me, I don’t stay in an Airbnb but in a “conventional” low key resort or apartment hotel. Suddenly, it’s made me feel more ethical! But my accommodation last fall in Athens was through Vrbo, a fantastic apartment two blocks from the Acropolis and within walking distance of teeming bars, restaurants, cafes and the city’s magnificent old town Plaka. Yes, I thought I might have gotten an evil eye from a neighbour. But I would book again, if available, and swallow my guilt. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

Walk With Israel event went off without a hitch including getting there and back

I joined the Walk With Israel march this weekend in Toronto, sponsored by the Toronto Federation Canadian Jewish Appeal, its 55th year but the turnout this year was absolutely spectacular. In the wake of the October 7 Hamas atrocities killing 1200 Israeli citizens and kidnapping some 250 more (120 remain hostages) the event took on added importance. Based on pre-registrations organizers were expecting at least 30,000. But 50,000 or more showed up on a bright sunny morning in midtown Toronto for the five kilometre walk up Bathurst St. to the CJA’s offices and Holocaust Museum in North York. Police presence was amazing. In fact, there were layers of security – Toronto and neighboring forces like Durham and Niagara, then flanks of private security and then volunteer marshalls. It was understandable given the violent attacks on the Toronto – and Canadian - Jewish community in recent months, including widespread vandalism, arson, fire bombings and shootings. And TO has always been a hotbed of radicalism, as witness the U of T so-called “encampment” by pro-Palestinian or Hamas demonstrators. Thankfully, the Walk went off without a hitch and surprisingly there were few counter-protesters. There was speculation anti-Israel types would try to disrupt the event. But all we saw were a few people at one residential intersection – always masked like Ninjas of course - half surrounded by about a dozen cops, and perhaps 100 people massed at the corner of Bathurst and Shepperd, with loudhailers, drumming and even setting off smoke. There were tons of police and things didn’t get violent. Most of the walkers simply ignored them. (There were several arrests of the counterdemonstrators I later read.) All in all, a fantastic day.

Was I scared attending the event. To be honest, a little. What I mostly feared wasn’t being in the Walk itself but travelling to and from, where I wouldn’t be protected by security. That meant boarding a subway at the Finch West station in north Toronto (North York)  and riding five stops to Lawrence West, where I walked several blocks to the march starting point. And after the Walk, walking several blocks up Bathurst to Finch and catching a bus west on Finch to the Finch West subway, where I’d parked my car. I made sure I was noticeable with my white Walk With Israel T-shirt and even a small Israeli flag attached to my hat. I wasn’t going to be intimidated. Hardly anyone noticed and I got a couple of muted sidelong glances, more curious than anything. I was surprised that a TTC worker congratulated me as I walked out of the Lawrence West station. On the way back, I carried my sign depicting a hostage (Avera Mangisto, 36) and made sure it was seen by others on the crowded bus, simply by turning it outward but not in anyone’s face. Again, no problem and a bit of curiosity, that’s all.

As for getting around Toronto and the TTC, it was easy to find a parking spot at the Finch West station public parking on a Sunday morning, and when there’s no charge. But I was surprised the station didn’t open until as late as 7.45 am. Fares were easy by purchasing though machines a Presto card for two return trips, which also could be used on the bus - no muss, no fuss.

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

Remote and not-so-remote - that's Norway

You never know these days what kind of service you’ll get on an airline. This month JD Power ranked Air Canada below par, especially for high air fares. That may be true. But I’ve found AC generally provides better service than some other airlines. Its entertainment system and selection of movies is superior to other transcontinental airlines like Air Transat, El Al and SAS. And it still serves wine or beer with meals – gratis. But on a recent Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) flight from Toronto to Copenhagen, not only were the movies more limited but you had to pay for booze unless you wanted to upgrade to a “premium” dinner. It was enough to make me reconsider the airline next time I fly. And on a connecting flight from Copenhagen to Norway, SAS even charged for the water, though they made a fuss about coffee and tea being “complimentary.” 

On the plus side, a feature I liked both at the Copenhagen and Norway airports was the loading of the passengers from both front and rear doors (photo). So much easier than having all passengers wait as those in front take their blessed time stowing luggage.

While on a seven-day cruise (my first) along the northwest coast of Norway, including above the Arctic Circle, I lucked out in that travel coincided with Norway’s Constitution Day May 17 (the equivalent of Canada Day or US Independence Day). But what a difference! The streets were packed with people in traditional costume. Women wore long dresses and embroidered blouses known as “bunads.” (photo). Some men donned traditional garb, others in their Sunday best. I was amazed by this personal celebratory form of patriotism that certainly doesn’t exist in North America and other countries. Joyous and happy, I was with the crowds in the city of Trondheim, while our vessel, Hurtigruten’s Nordkapp, was in port.

I’ve never been one for cruising but the Hurtigruten voyage was one of the “least touristy” excursions I could find. The ship is hardly a “Disney” behemoth but offers subdued tourism while a working vessel calling at ports large and small, loading and unloading supplies and local passengers. Plus, I’ve always wanted to go up to Norway’s top, having jettisoned driving there last year after learning I could only be in Europe for a total of 90 out of 180 days per Schengen rules. Back in 2019 I’d driven from Oslo to Bergen up the southwest coast but never further north. The coastal mountain scenery is staggering. But even among these remote hinterlands Norwegian villages pop up out of nowhere. I booked a “full board” (three daily meals) but was disappointed that Hurtigruten charged substantially for every extra - hundreds of dollars for on shore excursions to “wine packages” (the “basic” was four bottles for about $75 CAD). Many of my fellow passengers chose to take the reverse trip from Kirkenes but that’s where I got off. I enjoyed the cruise but seven days was enough and I didn’t feel like backtracking along the same route. Kirkenes is as far north and east as you can go in Norway, only 15 km from the Russian border. Did it feel remote? Yes and no. The Thon hotel chain had every bit the contemporary hotel there. And there were regular Airbus 320 jet flights to Oslo (just over two hours). Remote and not-so-remote – that’s Norway.

- Ron Stang, a frequent traveller, Windsor, Ontario, Canada

So now my ArriveCAN experiences totally make sense

The federal government’s ArriveCAN app, developed during the pandemic to regulate travel documents and proof of vaccinations, is now the focus of a probe into a $60 million scandal. A Parliamentary committee is looking into how an app that one tech firm said could have been developed for less than $1 million, was contracted for, well, $59.5 mil., and to just two people, with a background in securing government contracts, GC Strategies. They in turn subcontracted to a couple of dozen programmers. An Auditor General’s report slammed the contract, saying the developers showed "glaring disregard for basic management and contracting practices" and that taxpayers "paid too much." The app not only was expensive but subject to flaws. Such as when it told travellers to quarantine when they didn’t need to or discouraging Americans from visiting and shopping in Canada. But, in hindsight, all of this makes perfect sense in light of my own problems with the app.

Incident 1 – Athens, August 2021. My first trip after travel rules eased was also my first time in Greece for a very hot but delightful week, touring Athens, north to Delphi and a few of the Saronic Islands southwest of the city. All went swimmingly until the day prior to my return to Canada. I whipped out my cellphone and tried to log on to the app, uploading my vaccine information. I couldn’t log on! I tried several times but no go. I wondered if a computer would be easier. Ever try to find a computer in a strange city? I went to the office in my hotel. They let me use a staff computer. But it was taking too much time, and I didn’t want to impose. So off I went downtown, about a 20-minute walk, to the Air Canada office. Except the Air Canada office is one office on, like, the sixth floor of a nondescript building shared by several airlines. And the door was locked, and you could only talk by intercom. I told my problem and they said to go to the Canadian Embassy. Great! So I took a cab across town arriving just before lunch, when the embassy closes down. Come back at 1 pm, the receptionist, who knew nothing about ArriveCAN, said. “Try the McDonald’s Wi-Fi a block away.” I did – and met a great Canadian guy, a lawyer, from Montreal with family in Greece and who was temporarily living there – but it didn’t work at the resto either. Back to the embassy. Luckily the embassy had a public computer kiosk, to which I was sent. And the app finally worked! My fear was I would have shown up at the airport and, without an updated app, they wouldn’t let me on the plane. No fear, because when I arrived at Toronto Pearson Customs, I was pleasantly told, “You could have done that here!”

Incident 2 – Frankfurt, May 2022. We arrived at check-in and this time the Air Canada rep (I can still picture his humorous demeanor and bald head) wouldn’t give us boarding passes until I showed an updated ArriveCAN, the reverse of the Athens situation. It took several minutes to scroll through my phone documents and finally find the certificates. Phew!

So, my friends, as it turned out, my ArriveCAN experiences totally made sense considering the nonsensical incompetence that was built into this boondoggle. 

- Ron Stang, a frequent traveller, Windsor Ontario Canada 

What's with glum northern Europeans?

I go to Spain just about every year. Southern Spain, which is kind of like the Florida of Europe. Lots of northern European and Brits also make the trip to the Costa del Sol also sometimes known as the Costa del Golf, it’s so popular with the swinging stick set. All well and good. Expect, well, northern Europeans are not the sunniest lot, defying the fact they are on the “sun coast.” I walk every day across a bridge to a commercial area and am constantly “running into” pedestrians walking the opposite direction. I knew immediately something was different. In North America, there would at least be attempts at smiles or in fact “Good mornings” or “Hellos.” Not so with most of my fellow walkers. They turn their heads away or down, and it looks like it would take a crowbar to break them into smiles. One time, on a beach bench, I sat for the longest time trying to decide to engage my fellow bench sitter in conversation. This individual never paid me notice, supposedly caught up in his book with occasional stares out to the sea. I screwed up my courage and engaged. Yes, he did speak, this Norwegian, and we eventually got a – halting – conversation going. Then last month, while walking out of parking garage, a passing motorist shouted out, “Hey, friendly Americans!” assuming we were. He was from Atlanta. Part of me wondered if his greeting reflected the glum responses of Europeans. I asked a good friend of mine, a German, why northerners were so reluctant to engage, at least in small talk. “They think small talk is bullshit,” he said. Yes, I said, “but if it wasn’t for small talk, I never would have met you in that bar in East Berlin so many years ago.”

You must hand it to European when it comes to being inventive. Their restaurants, coffee shops, stores, are often more creative than what we find in North America. And so too are their street hustlers! Driving out of Malaga last month and stopped for a red light, beggars dispensed with the tired and cliched squeegees common in North America, or simply holding out their hands for money. This pair entertained us as acrobats.

I have found a great website on Facebook that has video of what it’s like in the cockpit of passenger airliners during takeoffs and landings, Just Planes (photo). I spent lots of moments on the weekend watching them, flight crews in the moments just before landings and takeoffs. "Just amazing” I said over and over.

- Ron Stang, a frequent traveller, Windsor Ontario Canada

No show on first flight means return ticket also cancelled

Did you know that if you don’t take the first leg of your flight the airline will cancel the ENTIRE ticket? This is what happened to me last week. I had booked a return fare from Windsor to Malaga  Feb. 29 – April 5. That cost $1526.10 through Air Canada and a couple of European airlines. Then I changed travel plans. I had an opportunity to go to Israel on a Solidarity Mission in the wake of the Oct. 7 atrocities, something I couldn’t pass up. That meant leaving Feb. 16. In Israel I booked a separate ticket from Tel Aviv to Malaga so I’d arrive in Spain on the start date of my vacation rental. My plan was to return to Canada, on the original flight return date of April 5, using the second leg of the round trip Windsor-Malaga ticket. When I arrived at the connecting Air Canada check-in counter in Dublin, nothing doing. The staff couldn't find my booking. I showed my original confirmation through Booking.com. They had nothing in their records. They sympathized and were puzzled. They finally phoned corporate and asked about the booking and whether they could retrieve it. No. The explanation: if you don’t show up for your original flight the entire ticket, including return leg, is cancelled. Staff told me I could book a fresh ticket online on the same flight right there in the airport. I sat down, pulled out my phone, went to the Air Canada website (Booking.com didn’t seem to offer the original flight and led me to later bookings some for as much as $4000+). Air Canada, however, had that same flight, leaving in a few hours (luckily it had been delayed). There was still room on the plane, paramount since my (disabled) partner was also on the flight, booked under a separate ticket; we even got the same seats. But I was out more than $1000 when luggage was added. I couldn’t believe this and, upon arriving home, immediately contacted well known Gabor Lukacs, founder of Halifax-based Air Passenger Rights. He responded quickly, as he usually does, this time in less than an hour. “Unfortunately, I do not see a breach of contract here," he said. "I do recall AC's tariff expressly stating that if you are a no-show, then they can cancel your subsequent segments.” I also took it up with Air Canada only to read that I should dispute this with my booking agent. I called Booking.com and the agent reiterated what Lukacs had said, indicating that not taking the first leg results in cancellation of the second, as per the reservation’s fine print.

Upon the Air Canada flight arriving in Toronto – and before the final jaunt to Windsor – my partner and I had reason to stay in the aircraft after all the other passengers had left. My partner is disabled so we always leave the aircraft last (we also board among the first). Not a problem, as we were waiting for a narrow-aisle wheelchair. Several of the flight attendants came to shoot the breeze. Meanwhile, a squad of airplane cleaners came on board. There were at least a couple of dozen, their jobs to thoroughly vacuum and gather trash from the flight (photo), making fresh for the plane’s next departure in a few hours. This plane was heading back across the pond to Vienna. They were like whirling dervishes quickly cleaning the cabin. I asked a couple if there were typical flights that generated the most garbage and got varying answers, including Tokyo and London, though London (UK) came up the most!

- Ron Stang, a frequent traveller, Windsor Ontario Canada

Pedestrian access a little to be desired

There are plenty of things to admire about Spain. It's a nation of efficiency, cleanliness and orderliness. In any grocery store I’ve been in you'll never have to wait more than a couple of minutes to be directed to the next cash or have a cash opened up for you. Parking garages have floors that are so impeccably clean they almost shine. The nation is reputed to have the second best high speed network of trains in the world, and I can attest they are superb ways to travel, often reaching 300 km/hour, as per the LED read out at the front of the coaches. At even the smallest coffee shops, products are arranged with utmost tidiness. Chambermaids not only clean every nook and cranny but rearrange furniture, even trash cans, as exactly the suite was originally set up. But certain aspects of the country just makes you want to shake your head. I speak in particular of highways, sidewalks and pedestrian access. I adore my haunt of the last several years, Elviria, on the outskirts of Marbella (and home to Julio Iglesias!). But the pedestrian and motorist infrastructure would never pass the grade in North America. For example, on a well pedestrianized overpass leading to a commercial area, the "sidewalk" is more an afterthought than the real thing. In fact, it doesn’t even seem

to be designed as a sidewalk but simply a concrete surface a few feet wide on the opposite side of vehicle guardrails. In parts it's crumbling away. In another there's an indentation a few feet long. A sizable black PVC tube serpentines along part of it. Anyone walking along it either has to turn sideways to let a walker opposite pass or step aside, often on a makeshift gravel path that has been created over the years as the "second lane." Meanwhile, the outside posts that the guardrail is affixed to intrudes into the "sidewalk." Then there's the bus stop. A fully functioning bus stop with modern shelter is located just down below. Buses pull off the Autoivia (freeway) into these narrow bays, a site unimaginable in North America

where they would likely be deemed hazardous. But the kicker is pedestrian access to the bus stop. On one side there is a culvert, more than a couple of feet wide and a foot deep. To get from a sloping lawn (no sidewalk or steps) to the bus stop you either have to walk into and out of the culvert or jump across it, risking twisting your ankle. Yes, you can go around it to the very end where an exit ramp meets the highway and a walking path of sorts exists. But the sidewalk is disintegrating with a mess of gravel.

Two oh-so-Euro things: Cigarette machines still reign supreme in restaurants, cafes and grocery stores, just like they used to do in North America up to the 1970's...And even on an overcast windy day, Europeans can be seen dining outside, oblivious to the blustery conditions. or maybe they love the Costa del Sol just oh-so-much!

- Ron Stang, a frequent traveller, Windsor Ontario Canada

Israel: this multidimensional land will survive

My Israel Solidarity Mission trip concluded, here are some takeaways:

The country remains vastly united. Sure, there may have been mass demonstrations last year that seemed to be tearing the country apart over a more than controversial judicial review by the Netanyahu government. All that has ended. I don't doubt people are still irritated with the prime minister and I saw obscene graffiti stating just that. But when Israel as a nation is attacked its body politic comes together. How would you feel if a nation roughly the size of southern Ontario was most viciously assaulted for no provocation? And when the attackers vowed to do the same over and over again? Hostage kidnapped posters were everywhere, the one visual departure from what otherwise seems a very normal going-about-business country. Scratch the surface and talk with anyone and you know people are outraged and want to fight back. Israel didn't start this, just as it didn't the Yom Kippur War (1973), Six Day War (1967) and War of Independence (1948). Not to mention innumerable terrorist attacks, with one clock estimating that

the shortest time Israel has not been attacked by a missile is 56 minutes. We visited Sderot, a city south of Tel Aviv that has long been a target of Hamas missiles, often made from UN donated water pipe. We watched a video of Hamas terrorists where, on an otherwise quiet Saturday morning,  begin shooting people on the street outside the police station, the site of a vicious Oct. 7 battle. We dined with soldiers who had come to Israel from around the world, from Uruguay, Brooklyn and Manhattan, all of whom made Aliyah and are now proud Israeli citizens. Gun-toting soldiers (some off duty) has long been a feature of Israeli society the sight of which has more poignancy now. You have to even smile when you see attractive young women, applying makeup and seemingly without a care in the world, toting an M4 or M16 rifle across their backs. There is no question Israel is a Jewish state, with Orthodox Jews most visible but numerous men also wearing yarmulkes. So many israeli women wear religious turbans (Mitpachat), a fascinating and exotic garment which you will see in no other country at least in this abundance. But, as probably the vast majority of outsiders are unaware, this is a multi-ethnic state. A fifth of the population is Arab - and Muslim. Road signs are in three languages - Hebrew, Arabic and then English. And eschew any talk that this is a "white" country. It’s as racially diverse as Canada or the US, with people of all shades including Blacks and Asians. And don’t believe the rhetoric that this is a "settler" country. Jews have been here for 3000 years. The country is traditional but more than contemporary. Walking back from a kosher Italian restaurant in the Machane Yehuda Market we passed open air rave parties with rock bands. Hard to find something like that even in Detroit. On my last night, taking the new and efficient train from Jerusalem to Ben Gurion airport, I met a vibrant younger woman originally from Chicago and in part as American as apple pie. She has lived in numerous countries and now resides in Haifa in Israel's north. She's going home to the States in a week. But she says that when she travels, she isn’t out of the country a day before she misses it. This uniquely multidimensional land - religious and ecumenical, traditional and contemporary with an undefinable life force shot through it - are the reasons why. 

(Photos of Jerusalem light rain line and a coffee bar in Jerusalem's chic yet traditional German Colony district.)

- Ron Stang, a frequent traveller, Windsor Ontario Canada

Israel - the ordinary and extraordinary

As I write I’m in the Baka neighbourhood of Jerusalem, a kind of upscale but historical borough about a half hour walk from the Old City. The sky is blue, the air fresh and clear. I’ve been here the past 10 days on a Solidarity Mission with more than a dozen other Canadians. The purpose is to show support for Israel in its time of need. We have toured numerous sites, from Hostages Square in Tel Aviv to Kfar Aza, one of several kibbutzim that suffered horrible atrocities when it came under attack Oct. 7 by Hamas from neighboring Gaza, about a mile away. We could see black smoke rising from Israeli shelling in the distance. We could hear the tat-tat-tat of heavy caliber tank mounted machine gun fire. Occasionally

we’d hear the very close booms of artillery, from our side of course! The burned out houses were horrific. We then toured the site of the nearby Nova rave, where hundreds of young people were slaughtered, injured or kidnapped, an open field (photo) of victims' pictures on stakes, now a national monument with visitors/mourners coming every day. We met with the deputy security head of Sderot - a city long the target of Hamas shelling - and saw video of an Hamas attack on the police station, the once modern building since razed and where an open lot with a large menorah now stands. We met soldiers and cooked for them at a field relief station. We volunteered at numerous sites including picking kohlrabies in a field just

outside Ben Gurion airport. We packed necessities, including food, for soldiers, the destitute - and evacuated families (many of whom were in our hotels) - the poor and elderly Holocaust survivors. We spent time in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. It was surreal flying here. What would Israel be like? But it didn't take long to adjust to the fact that life goes on. Taking the 20-minute train ride from the airport to Jerusalem seemed as normal as taking the subway in Toronto. There were traffic jams on the neighboring freeway. People were going to work as they always have. The stores were open, the restaurants buzzing (the food here is extraordinary), the vast and teeming old world Machne Yehuda Market (photo) shoulder to shoulder the afternoon before Friday sunset and Shabbat when people stock up for food in a land largely silent on Saturdays. We met an injured soldier at the Shaare Zedak Medical Center, also the largest obstetrics hospital in the world. We dined with soldiers who had joined the Israeli army from as far away a Uruguay and New York City. The bottom line is that, at least in most of Israel, you wouldn’t know a war is going on. But scratch the surface and talk to people and you know there is a common cause to support the soldiers in the fight for the country’s survival. “Bring Them Home” hostage posters (photo) are everywhere. Life here is both ordinary and extraordinary.  

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

The El Al experience

Israeli airline El Al is reputed to be the most security conscious airline in the world. And for good reason. The state of Israel has been under threat almost since its inception and has suffered scores of terrorist attacks since its creation in 1948. I’d always wondered what it would be like to fly on the airline. Yesterday my wish came true. I boarded flight LY 319 at London’s Heathrow Terminal 4 for the just over four hour flight to Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion Airport. I’m in Israel for 11 days. Prior to boarding I had had a good part of the day in London after arriving at noon on Air Canada from Toronto. My flight to Tel Aviv didn't leave until 10.20 pm. But after arriving back at the airport, claiming my luggage and checking in at the El Al counter, I was asked several additional questions while in line by an airport official before I even got to check in. These were pretty general, including how I was transferring flights and what I did between them. But I think it was the fact I had left the airport and went into the city that triggered a security alert. First a square yellow sticker was attached to my passport. I was also told to show up at the check in gate at 9 pm,  half an hour before boarding. I did and was asked to enter a security office and hand over my shoulder bag. There a staffer went through with it with the security equivalent of a fine tooth comb. Even my Clif energy bar was put on a device to see if it contained explosives. The experience lasted 15 minutes. Everyone was polite and courteous. But attached to my bag, as well as my checked luggage, were the same yellow security stickers (see photo). I wasn't the only one so diverted; three other passengers all of whom seemed Israeli citizens and spoke Hebrew, also were. I didn't consider this procedure particularly onerous and was expecting perhaps a more thorough interrogation. Otherwise the packed flight to Israel was as normal as that of any other airline.  Something else I noticed. The El Al flight departed at the very end of an airport terminal pier. The plane parked on the tarmac was completely dark, surprising because at night usually one sees cabin lights. The plane also seemed to sit in outdoor darkness. (A friend later told me this was all part of the security procedure.) No doubt there also were undercover armed air marshals on the flight  to thwart any attempted hijacking. And, not surprisingly, at the initial airport check in counter - unlike at any others in the airport - there were two armed British police officers carrying machine guns. 

I guess every friggin public institution now has to have its hypocritical and guilt signaling so-called Indigenous land acknowledgement, from city council meetings to the new University of Windsor Law school and the former Art Gallery of Windsor (now Art Windsor Essex). Now even Air Canada does. Flying from Toronto to London Friday night I heard it for the first time. After the security announcement, an Air Canada voice overlaid a video of the panoramic Canadian natural landscape. Only, instead of the usual Acknowledgement words indicating the meeting is taking place on (former) Indigenous land, AC’s acknowledgement is that it is “flying” over such territory. Apparently you just can’t get away from this woke stuff, folks, even in the skies.

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller

St. Lucia becomes St. 'Elucia'

I’m supposed to be in St. Lucia now. But my SO’s disability has declined to a point where she doesn’t have sufficient mobility, therefore sidelining that plan. Yes, the airfare had already been paid. No insurance because we’d never needed insurance before. My way of looking at it is, yes, I’ve eaten $2000 but the entire trip would have cost another $8000 for three weeks. That, my friends, is money in the bank…Why St. Lucia, which I’m now calling St Elucia (as in elusive)? During the pandemic this deep southern Caribbean Island seemed to have the best Covid protocols, with all resorts abiding by a standard system which appeared better than other Caribbean Islands. Hence the Island was more open for business, combing safety and normalcy. Moreover, from all reports and photographs the island, unlike others, is a standout with its lush forests, waterfalls, chocolate factories and Pitons mountains. Well, we never ended up going during Covid; we’d simply put it aside among other priorities. And now this cancellation (no charge for the resort). We’ll see if St. Elucia ever becomes St. Lucia! Coincidentally, on Monday, the expected day of our arrival, my computer screen randomly generated a screen saver of, guess where.

Postscript: friends whom I wrote about in the last post were delighted to obtain two $400 vouchers after their Toronto-Windsor flight was cancelled and they had to take Via Rail to Windsor. “I sent a registered letter to Air Canada on Monday, requesting a refund of the cancelled portion of the flight from Windsor to Toronto, and our train fare, and by Wednesday evening we had a refund of $800 in our bank accounts!  I’m not kidding! Pretty impressive." Sure is, that speed is almost unheard of for any business. AC is more than pulling up its socks paying refunds, a far cry from 2022 with massive backlogs from delays when people started flying post-Covid, though I've never had too much of a problem getting refund vouchers ... However, there’s a story in today’s National Post about the airline taking a Vancouver couple to court for making a similar claim. The airline says it is not seeking vengeance but testing a new adjudication process by the Canadian Transportation Agency (CTA). “The complaint was centered around a January 2020 flight that the couple says was delayed for 24 hours. Nearly four years later, the CTA ruled that Air Canada owed the Dyczkowskis $1,000 each and gave the airline until the end of December to pay. Instead, Air Canada has opted to challenge the ruling in Federal Court. If the airline is successful, the couple fears they could be out for more than just the $2,000 compensation they received — they could also be on the hook for Air Canada’s legal costs.”

The more I think about it, Athens (photo - sunset from Filopappou Hill) – where I spent almost two months last fall - is an ideal city. Sure, it’s large on a metropolitan scale but the central city is compact yet overflowing with activity. Hundreds of restaurants, cafes and wine bars cluster in the circumference below the Acropolis, all within walking distance. The same goes for the city’s roughly dozen museums. And in summer, you can easily hop on a tram to take you directly to beaches on the “Athens Riviera,” just south of the city. No need for a car; how perfect is that ... I've joined several Athens FB groups and find myself as an ambassador touting the city's glories. 

- Ron Stang, Windsor Ontario Canada, a frequent traveller